Many sources of 'useful' information are around for the Morgan 4/4 and +8 that are of common interest to the Register. So here is a list of relevant 'Tips and Information'.
If you have anything to add please contact us.
If you have anything to add please contact us.
Brake Upgrades |
Posted by Keith Hofgartner - 09 September 2013
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The brakes on modern cars are very good but they sometimes need a bit of tweaking. I have found that the us of softer compound front brakes and rear brake shoes makes for a better 'grab' and with the changing of the rubber flexible hoses (both to the front pads and connection to the rear) with a stainless steel braided version a quicker response from the pedal. I have found those from EBC Green Stuff to be universally accepted as a source with the added bonus that they do not leave so much black carbon on the rims.
For information:
EBC Green Stuff Front Pads (4/4) DP2243, I purchased a set of DP6380 but they do not seem to be the correct ones and will update this.
Goodridge Braided Stainless Steel Braided hoses (Set) SMN0302-3C-CL (dependent on colour choice)
Please check suitability for your car direct with manufacturer and ensure they are fitted by a qualified service engineer
For information:
EBC Green Stuff Front Pads (4/4) DP2243, I purchased a set of DP6380 but they do not seem to be the correct ones and will update this.
Goodridge Braided Stainless Steel Braided hoses (Set) SMN0302-3C-CL (dependent on colour choice)
Please check suitability for your car direct with manufacturer and ensure they are fitted by a qualified service engineer
Windscreen Part Number |
Posted by Keith Hofgartner - 04 September 2013
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I hope it doesn't happen... but if you require a new windscreen the part number for a LM62 4/4 is MWS0075 available from the factory. It is slightly taller (by approx. 10mm) over a standard 4/4 screen due to the increase in rake and to accommodate the hard top.
I am not aware if this is the same part for a +8 LM62.
I am not aware if this is the same part for a +8 LM62.
Replacing Switch Fronts
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Posted by Keith Hofgartner - 17 October 2012 (Updated - 04 September 2013)
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Do you want to fit the new style switches to your car then read the following:
Replacing the Switches UPDATE: An alternative method has been discovered that means it is not necessary to remove the switches from the dashboard if you only want to change the switch fronts.. download the file... Replacing Switches (an alternative method) Template of switch cover designs |
Wiring Schematics(4/4 and +8 specific - also suitable for similar cars produced in 2002)
Downloads available below: |
Posted by Keith Hofgartner - 11 July 2011
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LM62 4/4 Dash Schematic
LM62 4/4 Rear Harness Schematic
LM62 4/4 Front Wiring Schematic
LM62 +8 Dash Schematic
LM62 +8 Rear Harness Schematic
LM62 +8 Front Wiring Schematic
LM62 4/4 Rear Harness Schematic
LM62 4/4 Front Wiring Schematic
LM62 +8 Dash Schematic
LM62 +8 Rear Harness Schematic
LM62 +8 Front Wiring Schematic
Courtesy Light Switches |
Posted by Keith Hofgartner - 11 July 2011
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I appreciate that we do not expect all the ‘Bells and Whistles’ that modern production cars may have but I found it surprising that even a courtesy/foot well light was not part of the standard configuration.
So I set to and made one. Not difficult but effective. This is obviously of advantage when the soft top (or hard top in my case) is up but a useful addition when preparing for a journey at night (and for eating Fish & Chips!) Download a PDF of the complete procedure (0.18MB) |
Relay assisted Brake Switch |
Posted by Keith Hofgartner - 11 July 2011
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I have read several threads on various sites regarding problems with Hydraulic Brake Switches on other ‘Classic’ cars and decided that I should investigate a solution only to find that at the start of this season my own car suffered with a ‘Brake Switch Failure’.
What happened?
The brake lights fail to operate unless ‘extreme’ pressure is exerted on the brake pedal suggesting that the switch was failing. Enclosed is a modification that should solve the problem for the future.
Download a PDF of the modification (0.34MB)
NOTE: If you want to replace the Brake Switch then Lucas SPB401 is the part number.
What happened?
The brake lights fail to operate unless ‘extreme’ pressure is exerted on the brake pedal suggesting that the switch was failing. Enclosed is a modification that should solve the problem for the future.
Download a PDF of the modification (0.34MB)
NOTE: If you want to replace the Brake Switch then Lucas SPB401 is the part number.
Paint Colours |
Posted by Keith Hofgartner - 11 July 2011
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From the best information I can obtain the factory colours are as follows:
- Hard Top: Jaguar - Old English White available from Glasurit, colour code NDB
- Main Body: Morgan - Le Mans Green available from Glasurit, colour code 60608
(if using ICI paint the following ratios are supplied by the Factory (For one litre of Paint) Mix: P471-9954 - 707.1g, P471-9905 - 120.2g, P471-9907 - 248.5g
Modification to remove 'Rev Hanging' problem |
Posted by Keith Hofgartner - 25th Aug '10
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An annoying problem that shows itself as the engine revs 'hang' at around 3000 RPM monetarily on lifting of accelerator. This is annoying as it means that 'engine braking' is not possible during deceleration. The problem has been reported with a fix as described in the reprint of the original July 2007 Miscellany article by Bryan Hobson but I have added a few notes on my experience of this modification. If anyone is interested in obtaining these plates and not able to get them from Morgan Austria (as in my case) I am able to supply these via a local engineering company - please contact the Webmaster for details.
Download a PDF of the complete procedure (1.82MB) Idle Plate Modification template UPDATE: It appears that after a while the modification is not effective and the problem returns. I have been advised that resetting the ECU memory temporarily removes the problem. I have undertaken this and it certainly disappeared but has crept back again so periodic resets appears to be the answer. Download a PDF of the procedure with thanks to Bryan Hobson for this information. |
Fan Belt squealing (+8 variant specific) |
Posted by Terry Gilmour - 12th Aug '10
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A tip for all plus 8 owners. Since new, I have suffered with an annoying alternator belt squeal which eventually goes when the engine compartment warms up. It was embarrassing to be driving such a beautiful car with a squeal that turned heads for the wrong reason. After 8 years of ownership I have finally found the solution. Replace the belt with a "Gates 6PK-1028" cost about £16.50. Keep the other for an emergency spare and hear the difference.
Air filter modification |
Posted by Keith Hofgartner - 9th Aug '10
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Ever since I have had my 2002 4/4 (last 2 years) I have followed with interest various discussions on improvements to the cars performance. We all understand that the 4/4 is not an all out ‘Thrashmobile’ but I have always been one for getting the best out of what I already have.
The following solution has been very satisfying and certainly appears to increase the breathing and also seems to remove what I thought was a vibration from the gearbox on acceleration I know believe this may have been a starvation of air to the engine as it has now all but disappeared. Download a PDF of the complete procedure (0.23MB) |
Hard top modifications |
Posted by Keith Hofgartner - 9th Jan '10
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From investigations it appears that water runs from the top to the sides and actually runs under the rim above where it meets the side screens and drops behind the side screens straight on to the leather covered internal door sills. What is required is a ‘gutter’ as in any car roof.
But how…? After many months of contemplating the problem, I decided upon the use of plastic trim (used for trimming in DIY projects and easily available from Hardware and DIY stores). This has been sprayed (Primed with suitable Plastic Primer and Ford Ivory from Halfords seemed the nearest match) and attached using external double sided tape to the underside of the roof rim. Take care when forming the bend at the corner otherwise this can buckle. In addition I noted that the top of the side screens are actually 'set' with an angle and yet the hardtop has a straight profile. So I carefully straightened out the side screen and this now forms a very good seal. See also Original fix (from 6th Aug 09) |
Bottom Spring 'Gaiters' |
Posted by Keith Hofgartner - 8th October '09
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The problem - the bottom spring of the Morgan suspension, (although a clever and neat design) is prone to be covered in the 'less than nice stuff' on today's dirty roads. This leads to drying out of the bottom section of the sliding pillar and inevitable wear. As usual not an insurmountable problem to the clever Morganeer owner! Or at least Dave Wellings...
He has created a very neat solution that involves a mohair cover that simply velcros in place. If you would like a pair of these very easy to fix gaiters contact Dave directly by emailing him at [dave.wellings[at]btinternet[dot]com] UPDATE: These are also available from Morgan Dealers - Allon Whites |
Further fix for hard top |
Posted by Keith Hofgartner - 6th August '09
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The problem - the rear catch always comes adrift from the bottom bracket. At first I thought that the catch 'jumped off' but it appears to slide off when the body and hard top flex left to right.
After many months of deliberating over a solution for this, I have now resolved a simple solution to the problem. Simply use the plastic nuts from registration plate bolts and longer screws, and crimp the bracket slightly. The clamp is now retained after a week of ‘Centenary Celebration Motoring’! .......The next challenge is to resolve the water gushing in the side windows!! |
Mounting a GPS |
Posted by Terry Gilmour - 4th Nov '08
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You know how it is in a Morgan. You’re going on a long trip and want to use your Sat Nav. Well, you have two places for it; the first is in the glove box – However, you can’t hear the speaker or keep your travel sweets there either. You also need a separate aerial if you don’t want to keep losing satellite reception. How about on the transmission tunnel? A similar problem with losing reception and it’s also difficult to see.
Faced with this problem, I asked an engineer friend of mine if he could come up with a solution and here it is. A stainless steel rod fixed to the roll bar with a changeable end fitting for various devices. Mine’s a Garmin Street Pilot and here it is in place. No aerial needed, easy to see and a free glove box. If anyone is interested in one, the contact is; Gra Campbell on 01202 872232. |
Relay replacement |
Posted by Keith Hofgartner - 10th October '08
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When I picked up my car from Allon White Garage the only advice that I was given regarding 'spares' was to carry spare relays for the Electronic Fuel Management system. There has been much debate on various Morgan Blog sites regarding the replacements of the Relays that power the Fuel Management System and the inherent reliability issues.
To the right are photos of a relay that was purchased as a direct replacement for the original Bosch unit with part number 0332014112 (12v 30A).(In all photos the replacement for the Bosch unit is shown on the right). It was purchased from Europarts (Part no. on UK Site 450110050 at a cost of £16.07 incl. VAT (Oct '08) for two units. It appears to have the 'desirable' components of being sealed (silicon on the base) and rugged. The relays are slightly taller but this only means that the lid closes with a slight fall to the rear to allow water to run off if present. I cannot see how this effects the 'waterproofing' as the unit is open at the bottom anyhow! Car fires up OK...(Several long journeys and all seems fine - 4th Nov. 2008). (Update Sept 2010 - it seems that both the Fuel Pump and ECU require replacing if fail so carry two!!) |
Hard Top Catches |
Posted by Keith Hofgartner - 10th October '08
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As described in Bulletin 15 following the experiences of Peter Alt in his Le Mans 62 on a German Autobahn (Hard Top coming adrift at speed!) here is a useful and inexpensive modification to consider to your car.
On investigation it is clear that the screws holding the catches on to the top of the body (rear of the door) appear to be insufficient for the job, considering the high forces that they can be subject to due to the ‘suction effect’ when travelling at ‘speed’. After recommendation from Peter Alt, I have replaced the factory fitted 20mm screws (shown) with longer ones (50mm) this was relatively easy with slight increase to the hole size in the mounting plate and slight deepening of the countersink. Another useful tip is to then place rubber (best) or plastic tubing (as in photo above) inside the moulding to force the top away from the catches for stronger ‘bite’ by catches |